These are our walls. 4 Stoke Newington Road contains it. A lady called Lorna owns the brick and mortar. A carousel of tenants live on the top 2 floors making it their temporary homes as they enter from the back alley, pushing through a sea of delinquents who frequent gambling dens surrounding it. The basement and ground level: This is ours (as long as we keep paying rent and signing lease extensions) and this is our home. Us Dirik’s have been running Mangal 2 for 29 years now, Ali (our father), myself (Ferhat) and Sertac.
Last month, the news dropped that Sertac will stop working shifts from October onwards, whilst pursuing interests away from the family business. Whilst he was quite clear with his wording and intentions, the aftermath of this announcement has made it very apparent that there is confusion regarding the situation and what it entails for the future of our restaurant. At least 50 people have approached me in this short space, seeking answers. I will clear this up, to avoid any misinformation or misunderstanding. Sertac is a chef. A very talented one at that. The accolades are bountiful and fully deserving, from The Observer Food Monthly’s Young Chef of the Year in 2022, to Time Out’s Hottest Chef 2023. He works diligently, obsessively, and ferociously to push boundaries and create dishes of marvel and wonder. I am beyond lucky to have tried and tested every single thing he has constructed at Mangal 2. It has been an absolute privilege and my own understandings of taste, flavour, seasonality, locality, smoke, sourness, umami has been expanded and stretched whereby now I can confidently describe myself as a bit of a gourmand.
Our restaurant began with very humble beginnings. Kebabs, salads, meze, platters and BYOB. What he (the food) and I (the wine) pushed and created from taking over to its current state today cannot be diluted or denied. It’s simply miraculous we are where we are today. I state this without any hint of hubris or arrogance – it has been fucking tough getting here. We have fought and pushed each other to the limit every step of the way, both with the intention of bettering our establishment but with him coming from a fiercely ambitious angle a supremely talented chef will bring, and me from the angle of trying to slowly grow but protect the business without it losing its soul. It’s like The Bear, he’s Carm (the sexy younger brother who comes back and sets gold standards and professionalism from a high- end restaurant perspective) and I’m Richie (the divorcee dad with the local insider feel, hustling and bringing spirit and keeping the place glued together – but possibly a tad more sophisticated I hope? Also, at times, a bit of a prick). Either way, we both have given it our all.
Given the restaurant is confined and limited, these 4 walls can only push so far before they crumble and break. The food can only be so different, the price can only go so high, the service napkins can only be so bright, the floors can only be so deeply scrubbed. There is a limit, and honestly, I’m happy with our lot. I always judge the restaurant as “Would I want to eat here and spend £65 per head?” and as long as the answer remains “Yes, gladly”, I’m content. I don’t want to expand. I don’t want another site. I don’t want us cooking anywhere else in the world. I don’t want to have to spend more than 10 days apart from my two young children for any pop ups. I’m 34, happy, rooted, and enjoying my role more than ever. The restaurant is absolutely not going anywhere, and we have an incredible team of, screw it, I’ll say it, friends, who I trust implicitly and who will put everything into the business and into themselves professionally to improve every day.
And if Sertac wants to open a new restaurant, it makes a lot of sense. He is 27, he is incredibly driven and disciplined, and he wants to continue growing and developing. And sadly, Mangal 2 doesn’t seem like it can offer him anymore room to flourish any further than it has. The restaurant has been a springboard for his success, providing him the platform to put his cooking on the map, and just as fortunate as he is to have had that chance, Mangal 2 is supremely lucky to have birthed such a prodigiously gifted son in its ranks. Moving forward, rather than his skillset staying stagnant and confined to these walls, he will hopefully open the restaurant of his dreams, one that will showcase his vision and cement his position as one of the very best chefs out there. I firmly believe he will do it. He’s too fucking good at what he does to fail, and with a serious outlook to life that he embodies, he will pick the right partners to go into business with to ensure it’s all as foolproof as possible.
The biggest point is also this: The restaurant will still be his, just as much as it is mine, just as much as it is our dad’s. We are a family, all chained to one root, a root 30 years deeply woven into the concrete of our address. Whilst he won’t be running the restaurant with me day-to-day, he will still be involved with major executive decisions, he will troubleshoot and creatively input when menu change needs arise, he will promote the business and he will oversee major head chef changes - guiding them to protect his business and give it the best chance to continue succeeding. He’ll just be cooking elsewhere; the best food London has to offer and continue wowing spectators and consumers. Godbless, brother.
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Last month’s newsletter sent shockwaves. I just want to thank each and every one of you who shared, gave feedback, and supported my views. It really took me aback, and I cannot begin to express the gratitude I feel. Our Google rating is still 4.1, and honestly, I couldn’t care less. But the fact dozens of your left us 5* means the world to me. There is good out there in this scary world, and you’ve all reminded me just how much.